I Sailed the Greek Islands With Virgin Voyages and Found the Fun-loving Cruise Line to Be the Perfect Summer Escape

Past the glitzy boutiques of downtown Mykonos, inside a hidden courtyard lined with 200-year-old cacti, I was cutting pieces for a mosaic with an iron tool that appeared to be from a previous century. Artisan Irene Syrianou — who’s been teaching these classes “for around 25 years, I don’t exactly remember” — demonstrated how to slice slivers of glass smaller than my pinkie nail, then place them on wet mortar to create a multicolored design. The process was quiet but therapeutic: after half an hour, one member of our small group said it felt like a form of meditation. 

The mosaic-making excursion wasn’t the only surprise on my weeklong voyage around Greece and Turkey aboard the 1,408-cabin Resilient Lady. The Richard Branson–backed Virgin Voyages, which now has three ships in its fleet, takes an unapologetically bold approach. Passengers, who must be 18 or older, can revel in lipstick-red interiors, party-all-night entertainment, a variety of small-venue dining options, and a refreshingly inclusive atmosphere. Both staff and travelers are welcome to express everything from personal style (the ship has its own tattoo parlor) to sexual and gender identity. 

But, as I experienced, it’s the shore excursions that set the line apart. “For all the amenities on board, it turns out what happens off the ship is what makes Virgin passengers happiest,” confirmed Tom McAlpin, Virgin Voyages' then-CEO, who now chairs the company’s board of directors. “We want as many people as possible to take an excursion, learn about the culture, and be part of local life,” he told me over sunset drinks on Deck 16.

I decided to give it my best shot when we anchored at Santorini, setting out with just four other travelers on a catamaran excursion. The plan called for a five-hour sail inside the island’s famed caldera, the volcanic bay ringed by steep cliffs. I jumped into the cool seawater, then climbed back aboard to a huge meze platter and still-sizzling lamb skewers. As our little group toasted with Assyrtiko made right on Santorini, I felt as if we had chartered a private sailboat. 

“We’re partnering with a lot of smaller tour operators who were hurt during the pandemic to help them come back,” said Nirmal Saverimuttu, Virgin Voyages’ new CEO. “Instead of a big bus tour, travelers might instead board a six-person van.” Virgin ships also tend to stay late or even spend the night in port — ideally both, Saverimuttu told me, so passengers can spend more time ashore.

During my trip, we overnighted in Mykonos. Sometime around 1 a.m., I grinned as I waved goodbye to the island’s sparkling lights and returned to the ship, where a king-size bed awaited in my RockStar Suite. (That’s what Virgin calls its spacious balcony staterooms that have marble bathrooms and turntables, complete with a selection of LPs.) On my way, I passed a tender full of Virgin sailors going in the opposite direction, just starting their wild night out.

Seven-night sailings from Athens with Virgin Voyages from $2,375 per person. 

A version of this story first appeared in the December 2023/January 2024 issue of Travel + Leisure under the headline "Vibe Shift."