This Caribbean Island Is Home to a Lush National Park, a 400-year-old Distillery, and Stunning White-sand Beaches

Here’s how to plan a trip to Tortola, the largest of the British Virgin Islands.

Scenic view of British Virgin Islands against sky during sunny day, Tortola
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If you’re interested in exploring the British Virgin Islands, Tortola is one of the best places to start your journey. The largest and most populated of the archipelago’s four main islands, it's the perfect jumping-off point for further Caribbean pursuits to Anegada, Virgin Gorda, Jost Van Dyke, and the 60 smaller islands that make up the BVI. 

Following the devastation caused by Hurricane Irma in 2017, Tortola experienced a long journey of repairing and rebuilding. In the past few years, however, it has welcomed back visitors in search of the island’s white sand, clear waters, and lush landscape. “Tortola offers a serene escape from the hustle and bustle; [it’s] a destination where you can reconnect with yourself and nature and just experience the meaning of true island living,” says Cassandra Quirk, the director of marketing and public relations at Long Bay Beach Resort. Although island vacations often conjure up images of beach chairs and hours-long lounging sessions, you’ll want to leave room in your trip itinerary for Tortola’s most popular activities, including hiking, snorkeling, rum tasting, and visiting the British Virgin Islands’ first-ever national park. 

Top 5 Can’t Miss

  • Go swimming or snorkeling at Brewers Bay or Smuggler's Cove.
  • Try local speciality, fungi and fish.
  • Go hiking in Sage Mountain National Park, the first national park in the British Virgin Islands.
  • Stay at The Aerial, BVI for an all-inclusive private island escape just off the coast of Tortola.
  • Check out a 400-year-old distillery.

A couple of other things to note: Road Town, the capital of the BVI, is located in the center of Tortola’s south coast, and it’s a good stop for boat chartering, shopping, and admiring the arriving cruise ships. As Tortola is a British Overseas Territory, cars drive on the left side of the road and US citizens need a passport to enter; the island’s currency, however, is the US dollar.

Read on to discover more tips for visiting Tortola, including where to stay, where to eat, and what to do, according to local experts.

Beach bar with swings at The Aerial

Elizabeth Rhodes/Travel + Leisure

Best Hotels and Resorts on Tortola

Long Bay Beach Resort

“The best accommodation depends on your budget,” says Karl Burnett, a Tortola-based guide for ToursByLocals, who notes that Long Bay Beach Resort is a “lovely option.” Located on a mile-long white-sand beach, the resort is the epitome of island paradise. Its airy rooms, suites, and spacious Beach House — set on a gorgeous private beach — are outfitted with air conditioning, Wi-Fi, and locally made bath products. 

The Sugar Mill Hotel

History meets luxury at The Sugar Mill Hotel, a 24-guest room property made up of eight buildings surrounding a stone-built, 400-year-old former sugar mill. Guests can spend their days snorkeling, reading in the apple-shaped cabanas, enjoying meals from the hotel’s two restaurants, The Sugar Mill and Tramonti, and sipping cocktails at one of the three on-site bars.

Wyndham Tortola BVI Lambert Beach Resort

Burnett also recommends the Wyndham Tortola BVI Lambert Beach Resort, which boasts “one of the biggest freshwater pools in the British Virgin Islands.” The 14.4-acre remote property has a spa, a swim-up bar, 38 pet-friendly rooms and suites, and a Caribbean-Mediterranean restaurant, The Turtle. 

The Aerial, BVI

Spa with a view at the beach at The Aerial

Elizabeth Rhodes/Travel + Leisure

The Aerial, BVI sits on a private island south of Tortola, just a short boat ride away. Besides its exclusive location, there are several other factors that set the 17-room all-inclusive retreat apart from other accommodations in the BVI. Yes, there’s an oceanfront infinity pool and picturesque white-sand beach, but the resort also provides its guests with a special blend of wellness with sound baths, bespoke massages, thoughtfully curated menus (developed without refined sugars, food colorings, or preservatives), yoga classes, and more. 

Related: This All-inclusive Private Island in the Caribbean Is One of the Most Beautiful Places I've Ever Been — and It Just Got Easier to Visit

Best Things to Do on Tortola 

Tour Callwood Rum Distillery. 

“I highly recommend taking a guided tour of Callwood Rum Distillery for a unique glimpse into Tortola’s history. Operating since the island’s plantation era, the distillery provides an insightful look into the past,” says Burnett. The Callwood family has been distilling rum for more than two centuries, but the distillery itself has been producing rum for more than 400 years. Visitors can stop by, sample rum, and purchase a bottle or two to take home.

Go hiking in Sage Mountain National Park.

The first national park in the BVI, Sage Mountain National Park is highly focused on plant conservation and scientific research. The park also contains 12 looped trails and the highest point in the Virgin Islands; Sage Mountain rises to 1,710 feet, granting visitors stunning panoramic views of the island’s surroundings. 

Boats Anchored in Cane Garden Bay

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Sail, snorkel, or swim in Tortola’s clear waters. 

“Exploring the coastline on a catamaran or chartering your private boat allows you to discover hidden coves, pristine beaches, and vibrant marine life. It's an unforgettable experience that captures the essence of the Caribbean,” says Quirk. If you don’t have your sea legs quite yet, you can still venture to Brewers Bay or Smuggler's Cove for plenty of swimming and snorkeling. 

Visit Jenesis Studios.

Jenesis Studios “is the only site left on Tortola that preserves and showcases life in the Virgin Islands pre-1960s,” says Burnett. Artist Reuben Vanterpool heads up the museum, garden, and art workshop — which reopened in 2019 following 2017’s hurricane damage — and “provides an insightful look into the island’s rich history,” according to Burnett.

Best Restaurants on Tortola 

D'Coalpot BVI Restaurant Bar & Grill

While visiting Tortola, “you must be sure to try our national dish, fungi and fish,” says Burnett. He explains that “the ‘fungi’ is a blend of cornmeal, onions, peppers, and okra,” and you’ll find it on the menus of many restaurants that serve traditional local dishes. One of his favorite spots to order the fungi is D'Coalpot BVI Restaurant Bar & Grill in Carrot Bay. His other fungi recommendations include Sappy’s, Stone Haven, and Matcha’s.

Brandywine Estate Restaurant

Brandywine Estate Restaurant pairs Mediterranean cuisine with excellent Caribbean views. So while guests enjoy dishes like sauteed octopus, tuna tartare, and crispy fried whitebait, they can take in the complimentary sea breezes and stunning scenery from the restaurant’s position overlooking the Sir Francis Drake Channel. 

Red Rock Restaurant & Bar

“When in Tortola, sampling fresh seafood is a must. Head to a local beachside restaurant and indulge in dishes like conch fritters, grilled lobster, or mahi-mahi. The seafood here is as fresh as it gets, often caught the same day it's served,” says Quirk. Red Rock Restaurant & Bar checks all of those boxes — or, for something more casual, there’s Sebastian’s on the Beach or Patricia’s Beach Bar at Smuggler’s Cove. 

Best Shopping on Tortola 

Crafts Alive Village

For a “unique shopping experience,” Quirk recommends the Crafts Alive Village in Road Town. Here, you’ll find a “vibrant market where local artisans display their craftsmanship.” She adds that “it's the perfect place to pick up souvenirs like handmade jewelry, pottery, artwork, and traditional Caribbean spices.”

Cyril B. Romney Tortola Pier Park

Your choices are vast at Tortola Pier Park. The outdoor shopping mall features 70 different retail stores selling jewelry, clothing, shoes, and everything in between. Fair warning: You’re likely to run into cruise ship crowds, so time your visit accordingly.  

Aerial view towards waterfront of Road Town, Tortola

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Best Times to Visit Tortola 

Temperatures in Tortola consistently reach the high 70s and low 80s all year round, but travelers should consider avoiding the rain and hurricane seasons. December through April is known as the dry season — and tends to be a popular time to visit; tropical systems arise more frequently from August through October. “June is the best time to visit as the main tourist season is starting to taper off in advance of hurricane season, so tourist crowds are much smaller,” says Burnett, who notes that the waters are “more clear, calm, and warm” during this time of year. 

Related: The Best Times to Visit the Caribbean for Beautiful Weather, Fewer Crowds, and Lower Prices

How to Get There

If you’re traveling from the United States, you have a few different route options to get to Tortola. In June 2023, American Airlines started its inaugural flight service between Terrance B. Lettsome International Airport (EIS) — located on Beef Island and connected to Tortola by bridge — and Miami International Airport. Travelers can also fly into San Juan’s Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport (SJU) or Cyril E. King International Airport (STT) on St. Thomas, then take another short flight to EIS via Air Sunshine or Cape Air. Those flying into St. Thomas can also take the ferry to Tortola; the trip takes around 1 hour, and route options and timetables can be found here

How to Get Around

“The best way to explore Tortola is by driving around the island,” says Burnett. Quirk echoes his sentiment, adding: “The island is a patchwork of emerald hills and valleys, adorned with tropical flora. The drive offers breathtaking vistas of the Caribbean Sea and neighboring islands. It's a serene journey that showcases the island's natural beauty.” Travelers can rent cars through Itgo, Denzil Clyne, Avis, or National. Taxis are an option as well, but a rental car is necessary if you’re staying outside of Road Town or you want to explore on your own. Remember: Drive on the left, and navigate the steep, twisting roads carefully.

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