This Canadian Ski Resort Is One of the Few Places You Can See the Ocean From the Slopes

There are only a handful of places in North America where you can ski with a view of the ocean. Cape Breton Island in Canada's Nova Scotia province is one of them.

Cape Smokey, a ski area perched on the edge of Cape Breton Island, has attracted visitors since the 1970s. And now, the beloved ski spot — which was volunteer-operated for more than 10 years — is bigger and better than ever after undergoing a massive 2021 revamp that turned it into a year-round adventure destination.

The transformation, facilitated by the resort's new owners, Cape Smokey Holding Ltd., kicked off with the addition of Atlantic Canada's first gondola, which provides access to the ski area and scenic lookout platforms. In addition to a handful of other resort upgrades, Cape Smokey has added state-of-the-art snowmaking equipment to extend its winter ski season by two months.

The mountain has an average annual snowfall of 155 inches, but snowblowers allow Cape Smokey to start its snowmaking efforts when the weather dips below freezing in November and keep the ski, snowboarding, and snowshoeing area open until April.

With 15 runs and about 85 skiable acres, Cape Smokey is relatively small, but the resort is working to develop sledding, tubing, backcountry skiing, and even heli-skiing opportunities. In the summer, it offers hiking, kayaking, and direct access to the world-famous Cabot Trail, a scenic highway that traverses the island's rugged coastline and passes through Cape Breton Highlands National Park. 

Ready to plan a ski trip to Cape Smokey? Here's what you need to know.

When to Go

The winter season at Cape Smokey runs from November to April, but opening and closing dates vary each year depending on the weather and snowmaking efforts. For your best bet, aim to visit in January or February, which are usually the snowiest months on the island. While Cape Smokey isn't typically crowded, traffic does pick up during the holidays and spring break in March.

Where to Stay

Knotty Pine Cottages

Book a home away from home with harbor views at Knotty Pine Cottages. Several accommodation options include one-bedroom cottages with kitchens and living rooms and charming motel-style rooms. The best part? It's a two-minute drive to the mountain.

Castle Rock Country Inn

Find even more stunning vistas at the Castle Rock Country Inn, a 16-room boutique hotel overlooking the ocean and Middle Head Peninsula. The property offers a buffet breakfast featuring freshly baked pastries, locally made sausages, eggs, yogurt, and other goodies, so you can have a hearty meal before hitting the slopes.

Keltic Lodge at the Highlands

For a bit of luxury, stay at Keltic Lodge at the Highlands, located on a waterfront bluff within a 15-minute drive of Cape Smokey. The resort offers suites and cottages, a restaurant, and a full-service spa to help you unwind during your stay.

Where to Eat

Stevenson & Son Family Kitchen

Stevenson & Son Family Kitchen is a takeout spot offering globally inspired "home-style cooking." Hearty lunch and dinner options range from burgers and seafood chowder to pasta and pad Thai, complemented by house-baked bread.

Arduaine Restaurant & Lounge

For a nice lunch or dinner, you can't go wrong with the Arduaine Restaurant & Lounge at the Keltic Lodge. The atmospheric dining room has cathedral ceilings and large windows with views over the water, which is perfect considering the menu highlights Atlantic Canada's seafood — lobster included.

Bitsy Bean Café

Before hitting the slopes, fuel up at The Bitsy Bean Café, which serves locally roasted coffee, freshly baked goods like cinnamon rolls, and hearty breakfast sandwiches. The cafe stays open until around 3:30 p.m. and offers salads, wraps, and sandwiches, so it's also a great spot for a casual off-mountain lunch.

Where to Après-ski

The Blue Moose Bar

The Blue Moose Bar at Cape Smokey is the go-to spot for a bite and a beer after a day of carving. In previous years, the A-frame lodge has stayed open until 4 p.m. on Sundays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays and until 7 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. The venue occasionally hosts live music, so check the resort's events page.

Off-mountain Activities

Cape Breton Highlands National Park may be a popular spot in the summer, but it's equally picturesque under a blanket of snow. Many trails are open year-round for hiking, cross-country skiing, or snowshoeing — Ingonish Visitor Centre offers snowshoe rentals, but a 24-hour advance reservation is required. Looking to ice skate with a view of the mountains and ocean? Ingonish Outdoor Rink, near the base of Cape Smokey, is open daily in the winter, depending on the weather conditions. After a dose of fresh winter air, pamper yourself with a massage at The Spa at Keltic, followed by a soak in the lodge's outdoor hot tubs.

How to Ride

Tickets

You can purchase season passes or day passes on the mountain's website. Single-day lift tickets start at the Canadian dollar equivalent of about $50. Discounts are available to seniors, students, and children, and lift tickets are free for anyone under the age of six or over 80.

Rentals

Cape Smokey offers Rossignol ski and snowboard rentals sold as a set, including boots, skis or snowboard, poles, and a helmet. Rentals for adults start at around $30 if you reserve your equipment online or around $35 if you rent your equipment in person the day of. Snowshoe rentals are included in the cost of the lift tickets, so you can explore the resort's trails while you're up there.

Skiing and Snowboarding Info

Cape Smokey has 15 ski and snowboard trails including four "easy" green runs, seven "moderate" blue runs, two "very difficult" black diamond trails, and two double black diamond runs considered to be the "most difficult" on the mountain. There are two lifts: a gondola and a lift to the beginner area.

Programming

Private and group lessons are available to skiers and snowboarders ages three and up, but since space is limited, it's strongly recommended to contact the resort to reserve your spot. A two-hour private lesson starts at about $55, while a two-hour group lesson costs around $40. For families staying longer, the mountain offers multiday ski and snowboard camps for kids ages six to 14, as well as ski programs for little ones ages three to five.