An Insider's Guide to Paris — Luxury Hotels, Vintage Shops, and the City's Best Restaurants Included

First-timers come to Paris seeking Eiffel Tower views, flaky croissants, snapshots of the Mona Lisa, and a proper taste of steak frites. Even seasoned visitors of the City of Light would agree: Cravings for that postcard version of the city don’t abate easily, but there’s so much more to see (and taste, and do). 

Luckily, part of Paris' enduring magic is how expertly it weaves the living museum of itself — the can’t-miss landmarks, historic cafes, and perfectly preserved artist studios — with the momentum of what’s new. A Michelin-starred restaurant with a deep-cut Champagne list beckons just beyond the Eiffel Tower; a kaleidoscopic Wes Anderson-inspired hotel sits on the corner of the Hôtel de Ville; and late-night wine and cocktails lure in chefs and industry folk until 5 a.m. at a bar beside Place de la République. You don’t have to choose between the old and new Paris. It’s all there — you just need to know where to look. 

To that end, I’ve curated a list of tried-and-true bonnes adresses to help you plan the perfect trip to Paris, from the city’s most luxurious hotels to convivial natural wine bars, expansive concept shops, museums of all kinds (everything from Picasso to perfume), and restaurants for every occasion. 

Best Hotels and Resorts 

Cheval Blanc

Perched just over the Pont Neuf in the historic Samaritaine department store, this 72-room marvel is a beacon of luxury (of the LVMH variety). The location is as central as it gets and the spa is divine (it’s Dior), plus there’s a dreamy lap pool and sauna as well as an intimate new Japanese restaurant. 

Le Grand Mazarin

Step into your own Wes Anderson film at this Martin Brudnizki-designed property on Rue des Archives, smack in the middle of the bustling Marais. Here, 61 maximalist rooms and suites dazzle with velvet headboards, ornate tapestries, and objets d’art. Dip down to the subterranean pool to admire the Cocteau-inspired fresco, then treat yourself to the salted chocolate mousse at Boubalé.

Ritz Paris

The Ritz Paris remains in a class of its own. Classical music plays underwater at the pool here, while marble fireplaces, sumptuous drapes, peach-colored bathrobes, and over-the-top room service transport you to a bygone Paris — one where you might still find Marcel Proust scrawling notes in the tea room, or Coco Chanel checking in on her atelier. If you’re not looking to splurge on a stay, be sure to book in at Bar Hemingway and take a stroll around the covered arcade just to bask in the hotel’s history. 

Cour des Vosges

This sublime address feels like a well-kept secret: It’s discreetly tucked away in one of the arcades around the leafy Place des Vosges, Paris’ oldest and most picturesque planned square. A spiral staircase (and a small elevator) lead to a dozen rooms and suites where exposed wood beams, curated libraries, and well-stocked bar carts welcome you home.

Saint James Paris

Fancy a visit to the French countryside, but short on time? Transport yourself there with a stay at this newly redesigned château hotel — the only one of its kind in the city — that borders the sprawling Bois de Boulogne (and the must-see Louis Vuitton Foundation) in the ultra-private 16th arrondissement. Grab a martini at the sexy, wood-paneled Library Bar or steal away in the beautifully manicured gardens with a good book — and don’t miss the elegant Guerlain spa and lap pool. 

Best Things to Do

Visit a museum.

No trip to Paris is complete without a visit to at least one museum — and luckily, the city has more than 130, dedicated to everything from impressionism to wine to the art of smoking. While droves of people will queue up for their selfie with the Mona Lisa at the Louvre, I’d encourage you to check out some of the quieter, quirkier museums — like Maison Fragonard’s perfume museum, Montmartre’s charming literary museum, or the kid-friendly fairground museum hidden in the Pavillons de Bercy — which are often located in less central neighborhoods and will bring you into more local Paris. 

When it comes to art museums, it’s hard to top Musée Picasso, housed in a 17th-century mansion with a superlative collection by the Spanish painter plus ever-rotating exhibitions. The Centre Pompidou is the city’s always-invigorating modern and contemporary art museum, which is set to close for major renovations in 2025. Musée Marmottan Monet, meanwhile, is home to the largest collection of the pioneering impressionist’s work in the world, and it's running an Olympics-inspired exhibition through September 2024. Impressionist lovers shouldn’t miss the Musée d’Orsay, a former Beaux-Arts train station where you can have a tête-à-tête with works by Van Gogh, Degas, Renoir, and more. 

Two other favorites: Spread across two Renaissance mansions and a beautiful courtyard, Musée Carnavalet explores the history of Paris through street signs and other fascinating relics of its past. Across the river, a few blocks from the Montparnasse Tower, Musée Bourdelle is a light-filled wonder of works by sculptor Antoine Bourdelle, a contemporary of Rodin whose former studio and gardens are a haven to walk around. 

Eat your way through Paris’ oldest food market.

At the heart of what is now the trendy Marais neighborhood, the Marché des Enfants Rouges has been operating since 1615 and retains much of its out-of-time charm. It’s a beguiling labyrinth of food and flower stalls: tried-and-true favorites include Chez Alain Miam Miam's famous sandwiches, the seafood-focused small plates and natural wines of Les Enfants du Marché, and the carnivorous hedonism of The Butcher of Paris. 

Tour the city’s covered passages. 

The French know a thing or two about the art of shopping, as evidenced by the sublime elegance of the 19th-century covered passageways running throughout Paris. Less than two dozen of the nearly 200 original glass arcades remain, and are now home to rare bookshops, vintage postcard stores, artisan workshops, clothing shops, and wine bars. Trusted guide companies like Viator and Get Your Guide offer walking tours that hit the highlights (Galerie Vivienne, Passage Jouffroy, Passage des Panoramas, and more), or you can choose to wander them at your own pace.  

Hit the major landmarks.

No matter if it’s your first or 50th trip to Paris, you’ll always find yourself struck by the grandeur of the city’s famous landmarks. While some demand a visit, others, like the Eiffel Tower, best reveal their magic when glimpsed from afar (Rue de l’Université and Avenue de Camoens are two excellent viewing points). The Arc de Triomphe can be checked off your list from the Champs-Élysées, but it’s worth going up at least once to take in the spectacular views over Paris. Other main attractions, like the pristine white dome of Sacré-Cœur Basilica, should factor into part of your neighborhood explorations, as you trace your way up the steep steps of Montmartre for more panoramic views, vintage shopping, and charming museums. 

If time allows, hop on the RER C train and head toward the Château de Versailles (the station is Versailles Château–Rive Gauche), where you can immerse yourself in the gilded rooms and fairy-tale gardens of Louis XIV and Marie Antoinette. 

Learn the art of French savoir faire from local tastemakers.

“There’s nothing like being with a local,” says Clément Le Coz, co-founder of luxury travel agency Le Coup de Foudre, which curates bespoke itineraries around fashion, fine jewelry, antiques, literature, and just about any other creative pursuit. 

“Just getting a list of tips and places is the first step, but a moment to spend there with someone is incomparable,” he adds. Along with his wife, Justina Socas, the pair of them are devastatingly elegant — their team of in-the-know locals opens up a version of Paris that’s nearly impossible for visitors to access otherwise, including private visits to the Manufacture des Gobelins (a centuries-old tapestry factory) and lunch inside the mesmerizing atelier of La Maison Charles, a historic bronze manufacturer.  

“You’re providing a piece of history,” says Le Coz. “It’s not only taking people to a private showroom or introducing them to a fashion designer; it’s explaining the significance and the story behind it.” 

Best Shopping 

Merci

This three-story concept shop in the Marais always yields some new delight, be it a chic branded burlap tote, a pink ceramic dessert plate, or a perfectly tailored button-down shirt. It’s one of my go-to spots for souvenir shopping, and you can grab a coffee at their Used Book Cafe if you’re in need of a pick-me-up. 

Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen

Sundays in Paris are a quiet affair, as many restaurants and businesses are closed. To make the most of your day, head to the sprawling wonderland of the Saint-Ouen, where nearly 2,000 vendors comprise the largest secondhand market in the world.

Head to Marché Paul Bert Serpette for showrooms full of fabulous furniture; to Marché Dauphine to check out the retro spaceship centerpiece, plus vintage clothes, books, and records; and to Marché Vernaison for more than 200 vendors selling souvenir-worthy bric-a-brac. Local guides can help you find the best stalls — Paris Flea Market is a great independent tour company leading small group and private tours. 

Shakespeare and Company

Finish the book you brought to Paris? Lose yourself in the city’s legendary English-language bookstore, once frequented by literary luminaries like Allen Ginsberg and Anaïs Nin. It continues to be a welcome home for contemporary writers, hosting book talks with writers like Sheila Heti and Ottessa Moshfegh on a regular basis.

Empreintes

This multilevel concept store is a stone’s throw from the Marché des Enfants Rouges and feels a bit more off-the-radar than Merci. It was founded by the French federation of craft professionals and showcases hundreds of their unique handmade works, from statement necklaces to ceramic tableware.

Vintage Shops

There’s no shortage of exceptional vintage stores in Paris, from the bargain-bin kilo shops of the Marais to more curated boutiques and appointment-only showrooms. Some favorites include Sous Les Pavés, Le Vintage, a three-story funhouse of "Alice in Wonderland" proportions in Saint-Michel, specializing in 1960s Italian designers (think lots of Pucci) and meticulously restored lingerie. Vintage Inspiration Paris is a pint-sized treasure trove of Yves Saint Laurent blazers and Mugler dresses and bags up in Batignolles, while En Voiture Simone and Nice Piece are beacons of good taste in the Marais, drawing in Parisian It girls and A-listers alike. 

Pharmacie Citypharma

French pharmacies are a beauty and bargain lover’s paradise, and this is the best and biggest of the lot. From affordable retinols to brightening Caudalie products and Nuxe body oil, this two-story pharmacy in Saint-Germain-des-Prés makes for excellent souvenir shopping. 

Best Nightlife

Chambre Noire

Arrive early to secure a spot at this canal-adjacent watering hole — and know that you might end up staying until close. Here, hip expats, in-the-know visitors, and a good dash of French folks push together tables and knock knees on small stools as they crowd around bottle after bottle of natural wine from Austria, Germany, and, of course, France. Steal a spot on the terrace if you can — and order the olives, tortilla, and mushrooms. Just make sure you’ve marked the 4 Boulevard Jules Ferry location on the canal, as their wine shop sometimes comes up on Google Maps or Uber instead. 

Cafe La Perle

You’d be hard-pressed to find a better place for people-watching than this corner cafe in the heart of the Marais. Grab a 14-euro carafe of house wine and a sidewalk stool in the early evening, then settle in to watch the parade of Parisians heading to apéro hour. Late at night, the crowd skews French and youthful, taking over the street, waving cigarettes around, and dodging scooters as they sort out their after-party plans. 

Martin

A favorite of locals and visitors alike, this Oberkampf gem is perpetually crowded. Fresh, seasonal small plates fly out of the kitchen until 11 p.m., and tables grow increasingly jubilant as magnums of wine start to crowd their tables. If you don’t mind a crowd, it’s a perfect bar no matter the weather — cozy and warm in winter, airy and flowing out onto the sidewalk in summer. 

Fréquence

Vinyl lovers looking for a place to groove will find it at Fréquence. While not exactly a dance bar, there are always people moving here — to what degree depends largely on the music and how packed the floor is. It’s a tiny space (which often means waiting in line to get in if you show up late), but the cocktails are reliably good, plus there’s wine and sake. The crowd thins as people rotate in and out of the downstairs smoking room. On weekends, it’s open until 4 a.m. 

Cavalier

Smack between Place de la République and Canal Saint-Martin, this late-night wine and cocktail bar is an industry hot spot that stays open until 5 a.m. most nights, welcoming in chefs and sommeliers who’ve just finished a shift nearby. Guest chefs whip up small plates from 7 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.; afterward, you can order cheese and charcuterie platters and oysters until the wee hours, parking yourself on the terrace in warmer weather. 

Best Restaurants 

Substance 

The food around the Eiffel Tower tends to be overpriced and underwhelming — definitively not the case with one-Michelin-star Substance, which is helmed by 29-year-old chef Matthias Marc and offers a 65-euro tasting menu at lunch. Get a front-row seat to the spectacle at the chef’s counter, where he displays calm concentration and evident joy while transforming the products of his native Jura into sublime dishes (such as a transcendent gnocchi finished off tableside with Morteau sausage and vin jaune that brought me to tears). The wine list is impeccable — but if you’re feeling adventurous, trust the sommelier’s pairings. For those with time on their hands, the more immersive tasting menus — which can last three or four hours — are worth it.

Amagat 

Tucked down a winding private street just beside Père Lachaise, this Basque-inspired hideaway always feels like a party. In warmer weather, long tables stretch out underneath twinkling lights in what might be the city’s coolest courtyard, where locals smoke and sip on natural wine before finishing off with flan. 

Breizh Cafe

It would be a crime not to eat a crepe during your trip to Paris, and you can find some of the best at Breizh Cafe. Their Brittany-style buckwheat galettes are so popular that they’ve opened up several outposts around the city — the best being their sun-soaked corner in the Marais, where they serve galettes with aged Comte, Jambon de Paris, and onions decadently caramelized in cider. 

Le Bistrot Paul Bert

Bistros abound in Paris, but none hold a candle to Paul Bert. It’s as much about the food (perfect renditions of French classics, from steak au poivre to cheese soufflé) as it is the service (our waitress was both exasperated and energetic, a delightful combination). The portions are deeply satisfying, and the wine list covers classic producers as well as up-and-comers. As such, it’s quite popular, so be sure to call ahead to book a reservation. 

Le Cheval d’Or 

A lot is happening behind the famous red facade of this freshly revamped Chinese bistro, where foodies flock for superb stuffed duck à l’orange and invigorating flavor combinations, like red pepper and rhubarb pork belly, or tofu and caviar consommé. It’s tucked away in Jourdain, a part of the 19th arrondissement that few tourists will make the trek for, so the crowd skews local and gourmand. 

Le Relais de l'Entrecôte

With so many restaurants boasting ever-rotating menus of small plates, there’s something comforting about a bistro serving up steak frites day in and day out. Le Relais de l'Entrecôte is a classic, first opened in 1959 and serving the same set menu ever since: fresh green salad with walnuts and mustard vinaigrette, followed by tenderloin steak in a drool-inducing secret sauce plus homemade french fries. Frankly, it’s perfect. Go for Sunday brunch, and wash it all down with their organic house red wine from Gaillac.

L’Avant Comptoir de La Terre

Few things bring a smile to my face faster than a gallon of cornichons sidling up to a big bowl of butter. That’s the permanent tableaux at Yves Camdeborde’s narrow bar in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, which sets my heart aflutter on every visit (no matter: a bowl of duck hearts is quick to fortify me). The meat-focused tapas menu is hearty, the wine list always has a few treasures, and best of all, it’s open on Sundays. 

Best Time to Visit

Paris is a delight to visit all year round, but if you’re looking to avoid the crowds, consider booking a trip during the shoulder seasons (spring or fall), when the droves of summer tourists have left and holiday travel hasn’t yet kicked up. Flights and accommodations tend to be more affordable during these seasons as well, although you can often find great winter flights outside of Christmas and New Year’s timing. 

Fall has always been my favorite time to go — locals are returning from summer vacation and the city’s energy is completely refreshed. Plus, the warmth tends to linger for a bit. Winter, while typically gray and chilly, is charming, with holiday markets serving mulled wine around the city. In spring, cherry blossoms and magnolias bloom all around the capital, giving whole new meaning to la vie en rose. Summer sees the largest influx of tourists, but also promises of sunny promenades along the Seine and elaborate picnics in the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. This summer will be an incredible opportunity to visit, as Paris will host the 2024 Olympic Games from July to August. 

How to Get There

The city’s two main international airports, Charles de Gaulle and Orly Airport, offer easy and affordable access to Paris by public transit in under an hour. There are also plenty of taxis at the airport, and ride-share apps like Uber are popular.

Flights and accommodations are most pricey during summer and in December; I tend to fly with low-cost carrier French Bee, which is reliably comfortable and affordable (one-way flights start at just $189, plus there’s bottomless Champagne in their Premium class). 

Other Neighborhoods to Visit

Belleville

Home to the city’s smaller Chinatown and two of its most spectacular parks, Belleville somehow has remained off the primary tourist circuit. It’s a local neighborhood, with a vibrant dining and nightlife scene. Come in the afternoon for a picnic and panoramic views in the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont; stay for wine at Buttes Snack Bar and a big Laotian feast at the ultra-popular Lao Siam. Afterward, head to the famed Combat cocktail bar for a nightcap. 

Montmartre

Hike up to the city’s hilltop artist’s village for endless views over Paris, plus romantic hidden gardens, studio visits of famous French painters, and appointment-only vintage shopping. End the night by heading down the hill to the legendary Moulin Rouge to catch a cabaret show. 

Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Art galleries, designer shops, and double-decker pharmacies full of discounted French beauty products abound in this chic and historic neighborhood, once the intellectual epicenter of the city. For culture, follow in Hemingway and Picasso’s footsteps at Les Deux Magots and Cafe de Flore; for retail therapy, head to Le Bon Marché, the city’s oldest (and most fabulous) department store. 

How to Get Around

Paris is a walkable city — you’ll find yourself clocking 10,000 steps before noon most days. But if you’re heading all the way across town or just want to give your feet a break, the Métro is speedy and straightforward to use: You can purchase single-use tickets (though they are set to be phased out by 2025) or a refillable Navigo pass from an agent for longer stays. The bus network is also extensive and easy to navigate — the same tickets or Navigo pass work here, too. 

Taxis are fairly easy to come by in touristy areas, and ride-share apps like Uber work well here. Other reliable options include Bolt and G7 for reserving a taxi ahead of time.

Helpful apps to download include Le Fooding and Raisin for tracking down the best places to eat and drink, plus Google Translate, although by and large, the people in the service and hospitality industry will speak at least some English. To that point, don’t forget to say bonjour (hello) and merci (thank you) — your effort will save you some trouble, promise.