Florence Is Italy's Cultural Capital — Here's Where to Eat, Stay, and Visit, According to an Expert

Capital of Tuscany, cradle of the Renaissance, and one of Italy’s most popular destinations, Florence needs little introduction. A World’s Best Awards Hall of Fame honoree, it consistently ranks as one of Travel + Leisure readers’ favorite cities thanks to its rich history, artistic treasures, and delicious food and wine, much of which comes from the nearby hills of Chianti and Montalcino. Florence is a must-visit destination for a rich cultural immersion in Italian art and history.

Though the historic center is relatively compact, it’s crammed with museums containing priceless works of art, churches that are architectural masterpieces, restaurants, bars, and shops selling everything from gastronomic specialties to handmade leather goods and jewelry. In fact, Florence has always been a haven for artisans practicing traditional crafts, and today, you can still find artisan-made goods if you know where to look. 

It would take years to see and do everything Florence has to offer, which is why we’ve enlisted the help of local expert Mary Gray, the editor-in-chief of Italy magazine who has lived in Florence for more than a decade. “The things that drew me here were the same things that draw all visitors and students here, but what’s kept me here has evolved over the years,” she says. “The city is gloriously walkable and compact while having many of the cultural offerings of a much larger and more metropolitan place.”

Best Hotels and Resorts

The St. Regis Florence

Voted the number one hotel in Florence in the 2023 World’s Best Awards, this opulent grand dame has pride of place along the Arno River. Contemporary art curated by Liquid Art System adds a touch of modernity to the otherwise classic decor. Don’t miss an aperitivo in the Winter Garden.  

Helvetia & Bristol Firenze

With a score of 94.75, Florence’s oldest luxury hotel closely follows the St. Regis in the 2023 World’s Best Awards. A major renovation in 2019 restored this member of the Leading Hotels of the World to its original glory, adding a soothing spa and outpost of Cibrèo restaurant and café. “I love to go to the spa at the Helvetia & Bristol when I’m in the mood to give myself the ‘staycation’ treatment,” Gray says.

Hotel Savoy, a Rocco Forte Hotel

The Rocco Forte Hotels group is known for impeccable design and service, and the Hotel Savoy certainly fulfills those promises, earning it a spot as the third-best hotel in Florence in the 2023 World’s Best Awards. Standout details include colorful textiles by Laudomia Pucci, menus designed by lauded chef Fulvio Pierangelini, and views of the Duomo.

Four Seasons Hotel Firenze

More like an urban resort than a city hotel, the Four Seasons Firenze occupies the historic Palazzo della Gherardesca and is home to Florence's most extensive private garden. Original frescoes and period furnishings immerse guests in Renaissance splendor, and a meal at the Michelin-starred Il Palagio is a feast for the senses. No wonder this hotel ranked the fourth best in Florence in the 2023 World’s Best Awards.

Casa G.

Owned by the noble Ginori family, who once used the building as the headquarters of their world-famous ceramics production, Casa G. is a 15-room boutique hotel. A more affordable alternative to the city’s luxury five-star hotels, it offers style at prices that won’t break the bank. 

Best Things to Do

Admire incredible art at the Uffizi Gallery.

Florence is packed full of museums, but if you only go to one, make it the Uffizi Galleries, which contains a collection from the 13th to the 20th century. Must-see paintings include Botticelli’s Birth of Venus, Raphael’s Madonna of the Goldfinch, and Caravaggio’s Bacchus. 

Learn about Brunelleschi’s masterpiece at the Opera del Duomo Museum.

The Duomo is Florence's most recognizable landmark with its symbolic red terracotta tiled roof and Gothic facade. However, many of the great artworks created for it now reside in the nearby Opera del Duomo Museum. “This is definitely one of the most spectacular museums in the city and maybe in all of Italy,” Gray says. “I always tell visitors that if they’re deciding between going inside the cathedral or going inside the museum, there’s no contest.”

Visit the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella.

With a history that stretches back to 1221, this is considered the world’s oldest pharmacy, where Dominican friars produced medicinal tinctures and perfumes. It was the official perfumer of Catherine de’ Medici and officially opened its doors to the public in 1542. The brand now sells its perfumes worldwide, but the original shop was turned into a sort of museum worth a visit.

Stroll through the Boboli and Bardini Gardens.

Behind Palazzo Pitti, the Medicis’ royal palace, the Boboli Gardens are the archetype of the classic Renaissance Italian gardens, with fountains, grottoes, and statues. The same ticket will grant you access to the Gardens of the Villa Bardini, which has incredible views of Florence and, in the spring, wisteria-covered pergolas.

Explore Markets like the Mercato Centrale and the Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio.

Though the stalls outside the Mercato Centrale in San Lorenzo mainly sell fake leather goods and cheap souvenirs, the actual market is worth visiting. On the ground floor, vendors sell produce, meat, cheeses, fish, and other groceries, while the upper floor has been turned into an upscale food hall. The Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio is a “great convergence point in the city for visitors and residents,” according to Gray. There’s also a flea market nearby in Largo Annigoni.

Best Shopping

La Scuola del Cuoio

Established post-World War II as a way to help orphans learn a trade, the Scuola del Cuoio still teaches students the art of leather-making. You can tour the school, learn about the process, and then buy original bags, wallets, belts, and other leather items.

Scarpelli Mosaici

Scarpelli Mosaici is one of the few remaining workshops that still makes mosaics and inlaid marble items the traditional way. Head to the shop near the Duomo to watch the artisans at work and buy a unique piece. They also work on commissions to make inlaid marble tables and other beautiful objects.

Marina Calamai

“I’ve always been super inspired by Marina Calamai, who I think of as a true contemporary Renaissance woman,” Gray says about this jeweler and artist. “Her hands are in a ton of different artistic initiatives and green projects around Florence and the greater metropolitan area, but window-shopping her jewelry and art studio on Via Santo Spirito is a regular part of my daily route; I always love seeing what she’s come up with.”

Alberto Cozzi Rilegatore

Gray recommends this family-run shop opened in 1908, specializing in bookbinding, paper marbling, and the restoration of antique books. Stop by one of their shops — located on Via del Parione and Via Sant’Agostino — to pick up some stationary, a leather-bound journal, or have a book repaired.

Pegna dal 1860

“Pegna is where I go in a pinch when I need to pick up travel-friendly non-perishables to take back to the ‘foodies’ among my stateside family and friends,” Gray notes. “Though it’s a historic local grocery, I do love that there is a range of products sourced from all over Italy, like capers from Pantelleria and Krumiri Rossi from Piedmont.”

Best Nightlife

La Terrazza at the Hotel Continentale

It should come as no surprise that one of the best rooftop bars in Florence is run by the Ferragamo family. Book in advance if you want a spot at this small al fresco bar overlooking the Arno River. It’s incredibly atmospheric for a sunset aperitivo. 

Companion Dolceamaro Bar at 25Hours Hotel Piazza San Paolino

Gray likes the 25Hours Hotel for its variety of nightlife options, which includes the lobby lounge, the courtyard, and the intimate Companion Dolceamaro Bar. It has a wide selection of bitters, vermouths, and cocktails, but the most popular option is the Negroni, which has several versions. 

Vineria Sonora

“In Florence in recent years, it’s felt like a lot of venues have tamped down their personalities or strayed from their niches to appeal to more people or just to become more Instagrammable,” Gay says. “I love that Vineria Sonora stubbornly embraces doing its own thing, focusing on fun music and offbeat wines from small, independent producers. It’s perfect for pre-dinner or nightcap, and I love that it draws such a mix of demographics and ages.”

Best Restaurants

Alla Vecchia Bettola

“There’s definitely more to Florentine dining than steak, but when I’m craving one now and then, this is where I go,” Gray says about this no-frills trattoria with tables crammed together and stools instead of chairs. “I love sitting elbow-to-elbow and swilling back the house wine, but this admittedly isn’t the best place to go if you need to have a deep conversation over dinner —  you’re lucky if you can hear your seatmate over the ruckus!”

Regina Bistecca

For bistecca alla fiorentina and other Tuscan classics, including pillowy ricotta and spinach gnudi, in a more refined but still laid-back atmosphere, head to this lovely restaurant near the Duomo. The building used to be an antiquarian bookshop with soaring arches and the owners have kept the charming vintage vibes.

Borgo San Jacopo

For an unforgettable fine dining experience, book a table at this Michelin-starred restaurant inside the Lungarno Hotel, which is part of the Ferragamo family’s empire. The nautical-inspired interiors might make you feel like you’re on a yacht floating on the Arno as you savor one of Chef Claudio Mengoni’s exquisite tasting menus.

Trattoria Cammillo

“When one of my best friends who traded in Florence for London a few years ago comes back to town for visits we always love to make a splashy Saturday of it and have a special-occasion lunch at Cammillo. It’s a step up in price point from your average shabby-chic trattoria, but still has a soulful, neighborhood feel, which I love,” Gray says.

Cibrèo

The Cibrèo family of restaurants encompasses five locations in Florence. There’s the restaurant, the trattoria, the café, the Tuscan-Oriental fusion spot, and a new outpost inside the Helvetia & Bristol Hotel. When Gray used to teach travel writing to university students, she sometimes brought them to Cibrèo Caffè. “This is still one of my favorite ways to spend a special morning out in Florence,” she maintains.

Best Time to Visit

The best time to visit Florence for fewer crowds is November through March. Summer is hot and crowded. Gray says, “A real ‘low season’ in Florence isn’t much of a thing anymore.” She loves January and February but posits that March is an excellent middle ground because the weather is good, the local event scene tends to pick up after a winter hiatus, and the crowds usually swell around Easter.

Easter is a significant celebration throughout Italy, and in Florence, the festivities include the Scoppio del Carro, in which a wooden cart pulled by flower-adorned oxen explodes directly in front of the Duomo. Maggio Musicale Fiorentino is one of Italy’s oldest music festivals. It typically starts mid-April and runs through mid-June, with classical music concerts, operas, and other performances. The city also celebrates its patron saint, St. John the Baptist, on June 24 with a game of Calcio Storico, a mix of rugby, soccer, and wrestling, with participants wearing 16th-century costumes. 

How to Get There

Florence is served by the Amerigo Vespucci Airport, which is about half an hour from the city center. It’s also easy to get to Florence by train from elsewhere in Italy. High-speed Frecciarossa trains run frequently from major cities like Rome, Milan, Bologna, and Venice. The Frecciarossa takes about 90 minutes from Rome, two hours from Milan, 40 minutes from Bologna, and a little more than two hours from Venice. The central train station is Firenze Santa Maria Novella.

Neighborhoods to Visit

Duomo: Also known as San Giovanni, the part of the centro storico that covers the Duomo and Piazza della Signoria is the very heart of the city. This area is packed with sites, including the Uffizi Gallery, Palazzo Vecchio, Piazza della Repubblica, and the banks of the Arno.

Santa Croce: Just east of the Duomo, Santa Croce is known for the Basilica di Santa Croce, which contains incredible frescoes by Giotto and the tombs of Michelangelo and Galileo. The neighborhood is home to the Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio, which, according to Gray, is a hidden gem.  

Santa Maria Novella: Santa Maria Novella is the neighborhood where you’ll find the train station and basilica of the same name. The western part of the neighborhood beyond the train station is primarily residential, but the area around the basilica is home to some upscale hotels, restaurants, and bars.

San Lorenzo: The small area between the train station and the Duomo is San Lorenzo, the city’s central market district. Beware of the stalls selling fake leather or souvenirs made in China. On the other hand, you’ll find vendors selling fresh fruit, vegetables, fish, and meat on the ground floor. The upper floor houses a food hall selling local specialties like lampredotto (tripe sandwiches) and schiacciata (a Tuscan flatbread).

Oltrarno: Literally ‘across the Arno,’ Oltrarno is a more laid-back, slightly bohemian area. Gray, who has lived in Oltrarno for the entirety of her time in Florence, says, “I’ve watched it change a lot over the past decade-plus; artisan studios and workers’ neighborhood trattorie are being replaced by generic Aperol Spritz spots and run-of-the-mill shops, but if you know where to look (and hint: it’s not where the long lines are), you’ll find Florentine traditions and long-standing independent shops quietly humming on.”

How to Get Around

The historic center of Florence is compact and very walkable. Much of it has been pedestrianized or is part of a limited traffic zone. A car is a hindrance rather than a help, but taxis, buses, and trams are available to transport you to or from the airport or train station. 

Autolinee Toscane: Autolinee Toscane runs the buses and trams that connect Florence with the greater metropolitan area. Tickets cost 1.70 euros if you buy them in advance at ticket offices or ticket machines or 3 euros if you buy them on board.

Taxi: There are two taxi companies in Florence: Taxi4242 and Taxi4390. A trip to or from the airport costs a flat rate of 22 euros (plus possible surcharges for luggage), but usually, fares are calculated based on the time and distance traveled. Use the itTaxi app to hail a taxi.